Sewing Squirrel

Happy Saturday! I finished this little guy this week and just wanted to show him off. The pattern is from a book my Mother-in-Law surprised me with last week called Sew Sunny Homestyle by Finnanger Tone. When I saw this cutie I knew I had to make one!

A very short project, this took me about 2 hours to trace the pattern, cut out and sew the pieces and then a little longer to stuff and hand stitch it all together. I enjoyed using my sewing machine to sew on the tummy patch using a faux blanket stitch. 

The face hand embroidered and pink cheeks created using blusher! Cute, no?

Have a great Saturday everyone!

Burda 6874: Men's Stripy Shirt

I've actually done some unselfish sewing this past weekend and made my Husband a shirt. This is the second shirt I have made him - the previous shirt hasn't had much wear as it is not as fitted as my Husband would like. We've just had our first wedding anniversary last weekend, so this a (belated) anniversary present for him.

The pattern is Burda 6874. I'm going to go ahead and say that I didn't choose this pattern - my Husband came home from work one day proud as punch with this pattern in hand, which he had chosen and ordered by himself from the John Lewis website. It's really nice to have a partner who is involved and actively encourages my hobbies. However, this is probably the worst pattern I have ever worked from.

The instructions are minimal and sometimes confusing. I agonised over which size to cut out. My poor Husband was subjected to repeat measurements and comparisons of the finished garment sizes. I consulted the size chart on the Burda website but this didn't really help. In the end I went for a size 38, which based on the finished chest sizes would be too big but the yoke should just about fit across his shoulders.



The fabric is a polycotton striped shirting, with a white background and navy blue stripes which I picked up for £1 per metre on a recent trip to Walthamstow. The idea was to use some cheap fabric to create a hopefully wearable muslin to test the fit. It was nice to work with and has a very slight stretch.

I did make some changes to the pattern and the construction:

• I cut Version C, but only used one pocket. I made the pocket square because ironing the seam allowance on a curved pocket was tricky (Shh ... don't tell the Husband, he'll never know!) I also didn't sew a buttonhole onto the top of the pocket #lazyseamstress 
• My Husband wanted a short sleeved shirt so I measured the length of the one his existing short sleeved shirts, added seam allowances and then just folded the pattern piece accordingly.
• I cut the yoke perpendicular to the grain instead of on the bias, so that the stripes are horizontal.
• In order to avoid hand stitching the yoke facing I used the burrito method which is much easier. There is a great burrito yoke facing tutorial by Grainline.
• I totally ignored the construction directions for the collar, instead using instructions on sewing a collar by four square walls. 

Once I had made the yoke I tried the shirt on him, pinning the front plackets together to get a sense of how it would fit. Surprisingly it fitted well, but to give my husband a bit more wiggle room, I sewed the seam allowances at the shoulders, sleeves and sides at 3/8".

As this was only a wearable muslin, I was very lazy with matching up any of the stripes. I did make sure the pattern pieces were running along the grain so there were no wonky stripes. The shirt was actually really quick to make - I cut it out and started it on Saturday morning and then finished it on Monday afternoon. Thankfully, the fit is really good and he is pleased with it.

I also managed to mislay the diamond shaped pattern piece needed to make the tiny triangles at the bottom of the side seams. I just measured the correct width and height to cut them out. I'm pleased with how they have turned out. Surprisingly I had some issues with the curved hem on the shirt, but found an ace tutorial on how to hem a curved edge by machine by Colette, which solved the problem.

I'm still having issues with the collar. I've managed to get it looking neat but I've centred it around the edge of the right front, when in fact should be centred around the inside edge of the placket so it does not sit evenly. It's not that noticeable but now I'm aware of it I will be able to make sure it looks better next time.

My Husband has also requested that the sleeves be slightly longer, so I need to add around 1" so they are a better length. 

I've decided it's not bad for a first attempt! I think it will be a wearable muslin and it has certainly given me the confidence to attempt another to fix some of the issue with this one. 

Have you ever made a shirt? 

Mystery Fabric

I wanted so share this fabric that I have had in my stash for a while now, which is somewhat a mystery to me. It originally came from my Mum's stash; it was part of a bundle of fabric that my Mum saved from being thrown out at her school. It is a really beautiful turquoise leaf print on white background. The mysterious part is that I have no idea what kind of fabric it is. Cotton? Polycotton? It's very sheer and I would describe it almost as a voile. I also have another larger piece of similar turquoise voile, which I found in the remnants bin at a local fabric shop. I bought 1.7m for £4.

The problem I have is that the leaf print voile is only 25 inches wide, although it is 79 inches (2m) in length. I've been trying to think of something for which I can use this fabric. I don't really want to make it into a skirt as it is such a small print that I think would get lost, so would prefer a top or blouse. I'm also concerned about how sheer the fabric is. 

Left: Collette Sorbetto Vest, Top Right: Fifi Cami Bottom Right: Diana Cami by Spit Up and Stilettos. 

So far I've come up with either another Collette Sorbetto Vest or maybe a Diana Cami by Spit Up and Stilettos. Another idea is the Fifi Cami by Tilly and the Buttons, although I'm not sure if I would have enough fabric for this. 

So here's my plea for help: Anyone got any ideas for a garment that I can make which uses such a small amount of fabric?

Black Mimi Blouse

Hi All. I'm working steadily through my 'to sew' list and have finished another make. It's the Mimi Blouse which features in Love at First Stitch by Tilly Walnes. This is actually my second Mimi blouse, I made a white version out of some drapey viscose last summer which I have worn quite a lot. It's very much a wardrobe staple and so I quickly realised that one in black would also be a good addition to my wardrobe.

The fabric is a black polycotton which I ordered online. I can't remember how long ago I cut out this fabric but it was definitely before christmas. After blogging about it here recently, I figured it was time to get it finished!! I originally cut out a contrasting cream collar and planned to add cream piping to the gathers but decided against this.

I cut out a straight size size 3, which is the same as my previous version. I think I cut out a larger sleeve size, as the cuffs on my white blouse are slightly tight around my upper arms. This does not seem to have made any difference though, so in future versions I may need to make some further adjustments to the sleeves.

The construction was straightforward- I have definitely improved my sewing skills and this blouse came together much easier than my previous version. I really like the collar, which sits very nicely and I feel confident with this type of construction. Go me!

The only adjustment I made to the pattern is the buttons. Instead of the recommended 12mm buttons mine were much smaller at only 5mm. I therefore had to change the spacing, which required me to research how to do this. I put together a blog post on button etiquette to document all my research. The blouse front measured 17" without seam allowances, which when divide by 8 (for 8 buttons) gave me a distance of 2 1/8" between each button. In hindsight, the buttonholes are too far in from the edge of the blouse and would have looked better if they had been closer to the edge.

I think the blouse has turned out well. It has a very structured look to it, due to the fabric and although I've gotten away with it, I'm not sure that it is the best choice for this pattern. Whilst it's not a very summery make I think this blouse will get worn loads in autumn and winter. I plan on wearing it tucked into corduroy or wool skirts with black tights.

Anyone else starting to plan or make for the Autumn?

Bloglovin ...

Hope you are all enjoying the lovely weather we are having this weekend.

Just a quick post (if anyone is reading) to let you know I'm now on Bloglovin, so if you would like to follow my blog on Bloglovin please follow the link below.

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Thanks!

Button Etiquette

Hi everyone, it's almost the end of week three of my six week summer holiday. At this point I'm starting to get a bit stir crazy, as I have been spending a lot of time at home since I'm short on cash. I've been doing quite a bit of sorting out, having filed my paperwork and streamlined my wardrobe, as well as spending time sewing.

I'm making good progress through my 'to sew' list and have noticed that all my planned projects have one thing in common ... buttons!

Button placement photo via Sewaholic

I have a long list of blouses, shirts and shirt dresses which all require me to sew buttonholes. Despite the fact that I have successfully sewn buttoned garments, I always feel a little bit of dread at the thought of sewing button holes. In order to improve my buttonhole technique I've been doing some online research to fill some gaps in my button related knowledge.

How far apart should I space my button holes? 

Buttonhole placement has been the main thing that has been confusing me lately. All the patterns I am using come with recommended buttonhole placements for a certain size button, but if you want to go off piste and go with a smaller button size, for example, I have no idea about placement. How far apart should they be?

Diagram from Buttonhole placement tutorial by A Fashionable Stitch. 

After a bit of research I found a Tutorial on button placement by Sewaholic. The idea is that you pin where your bust is fullest (after trying the shirt on) as this is where the most gaping would be. You can then use a handy tool called a Simflex to work out the position of the remaining buttons, depending on how many buttons you would like.

However, if you don't have a spare £10 to spend on a Simflex, then this can be calculated and there is a fantastic Tutorial on buttonhole placement by A Fashionable Stitch. You can calculate the buttonhole placement by working out the length of the shirt front minus the seam allowences and divide by how many buttons you want. This will tell you how far apart your buttons should be. Exactly what I was looking for- problem solved!

Photo via Sew Mama Sew

How long should button holes be? 

To work out the length of buttonhole you need to measure the diameter of your button and then add 1/8" or 3mm (see Love at First Stitch by Tilly Walnes). If your using a tall button (e.g. with a shank) then you need to also add the height to this measurement to get the final length of your buttonhole.

How do I accurately place my buttons?

Tilly Walnes, from Tilly and the Buttons suggests pinning the buttonhole placket over the button placket and then using your buttonholes to mark button hole placement. I have found in the past that this is a bit hit and miss. I find it more accurate to use the markings on the pattern to guide my button sewing. I've recently discovered how to sew buttons using my machine with a button foot attachment, which has made sewing buttons so much more accurate and far less time consuming!

How to sew a buttonhole picture via Dana Made it. 

What types of button holes are suitable for different garments? 

According to Craftsy, traditionally on blouses or shirts buttonholes are placed vertically, running parallel to the edge of the placket, whereas on a jacket or coat the buttonholes are placed horizontally to ensure there is no distortion with movement.

My sewing machine (Singer Confidence 7470) does different types of buttonholes and I'm never sure which one I should be using. After some research I found that rounded ended buttonholes (the last two in above picture) are best for lightweight garments such as blouses and square buttonholes (first two buttonholes) work best for medium to heavier weight fabrics. Keyhole buttonholes (3rd and 4th buttonholes) are rounded on one end to accommodate thicker buttons or buttons with a shank; these are used mainly on coats and jackets with heavier fabrics.

Why do mens and women's shirts button up on different sides?

I've sewn shirts for my Husband before and I have to actually think about which side the button holes should go. Usually I just check one of his or my existing shirts to work it out but I wanted to find out why there is this difference. According to Primer magazine, Mens buttons are on the right because they dress themselves where as historically women Women's buttons were on the left because they would have had a maid to dress them and this meant that the buttons would be easier for a right-handed maid to fasten. I'm not sure how true this is but it might be one reason for the difference!

I've learnt a lot about buttonholes in my research and now have a much better understanding of placement and different types of buttonholes. None of this information is new (no point reinventing the wheel) and I've included links to tutorials that I have found informative. I hope that by gathering this information together it may be useful to someone ... I think of it as a lit review!!

So, I'm off to put some of this new found knowledge into practise!

Do you love or loath sewing buttonholes?

Black Floral Shirtdress

Hello. I've had a lovely week dedicated to sewing whilst I have been enjoying the school holidays. This week I have been working on extending my sewing skills with this beautiful floral shirt dress.

The fabric comes from my recent trip to Walthamstow, where I picked up 2.5m of this floral black polycotton. The fabric is lovely and soft with a good drape. Perfect for a summer dress.

The pattern is the infamous Mccall's 6696. I have wanted to add a shirtdress to my wardrobe for a while and deliberated over what pattern to go for, firstly comparing shirtdresses and then finally settling on the M6696. The pattern has so many variations, with different sleeve and skirt options it is a really flexible pattern. I chose view A, with a full skirt and no sleeves.

The instructions were straightforward and easy to follow. It was surprisingly quick and easy to sew up and will be even more so on subsequent makes. I did makes some changes to the pattern and construction:

1. The main change I have made is to gather the skirt instead of the pleating. I find that pleated styles tend to sit on my hips weirdly, whereas gathered skirts are more flattering. I use the directions for the Clemence skirt from Love at First Stitch by Tilly Walnes. 
2. When constructing the yoke facing, I used the burrito method. I hate hand sewing and will do anything possible to avoid it. I have unknowingly used the burrito method before when making my Husband a shirt, so I followed the instructions from Simplicity 1544. There is also a good online Yoke Facing Tutorial in the Alder Sew Along by Grainline. 
3. I did a lot more topstitching than recommended by the pattern in order to avoid slip stitching. For the waistband facing I 'stitched in the ditch' ala Tilly and the Button's recommendation from Love at First Stitch instead of slipstitching and I also topstitched both the plackets and the collar stand to secure the facings. 

The majority of the dress construction went well, probably due to the fact that I am able to take my time. However, when I was almost finished .... disaster struck.

I had faithfully followed the instructions for adding the collar but when I pinned in the collar stand facing ... well, the collar was all wrong. I had managed to sew the collar off centre, which can clearly be seen in the picture above. After showing my Husband and Mother-in-law I left it overnight but ultimately decided to resew the collar stand.

I had to unpick and also cut a new collar stand, but it was worth it. I followed this Tutorial by Four Square Walls, which gives a different construction of the collar which I am more familiar with. I'm far happier with the centring and overall construction of the collar.

I cut a straight size 10, according to my waist size which fits really well. I usually have a problem with my small shoulders but this fits fine.  I also like the length of the dress - usually I add some inches in the length so that it hits me at my knees but this was perfect without any adjustments. The only thing that I would change is to reduce the blousing at the back, which has also been noted by other bloggers.

One of the things I like about this dress is the fact that it is so neat inside. This was the first time that I have used bias binding to finish the armholes.  I'm not sure that I have perfected this technique but I have certainly improved. I used black satin bias binding that I got on my trip to Walthamstow, however, I'm not convinced that this was actually cut on the bias because there was not much flexibility around curved seams. In the future, I am tempted to make my own.

I'm very, very pleased with this dress. I might even go so far to say it is the best thing I have ever made. I am very proud of the construction, having practised my shirt making skills and learnt a new technique in binding armholes. I am wearing it for a trip to London this afternoon to see Riverdance, followed by a meal at Hawksmoore, hopefully it will prove to be comfortable!

What are you up to this afternoon?